An Atoll Bends And Refracts The Approaching Wave:
The concepts of potential and kinetic energy apply to the energy received by atolls, but first, let's examine two other energy-related concepts: wave velocity
and wave refraction.
The velocity of an ocean wave is always greatest in deep ocean water. The more shallow the water is, the more the wave slows down. So when a wave approaches a wholly-or-partially submerged atoll, the wave steadily slows down because the water is steadily becoming shallower. This means that the portion of the wave that is still in deeper water is traveling, relatively speaking, faster. So all or part (depending on the length of the wave crest) of the portion of the wave that is still in deeper water bends towards the shallower water. This bending is called refraction. When the (partially or wholly) submerged atoll is dome-shaped, it refracts the wave path to its center
—the direction in which the variable propagation of the approaching wave always bends—which captures the energy of the wave. The exact shape of the atoll's dome is critical
(click here). If that dome has the mathematically-correct shape, the center of the atoll captures the total energy of that portion of the spiralling wave that is equal to the diameter of the atoll. In effect, the atoll acts as a kind of lense concentrating the wave energy.
Just as a lense concentrates light by bending (refracting) it and redirecting it to a single point, the atoll concentrates the wave by bending (refracting) it and directing its total energy to the center of the atoll.(next)
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An Atoll Bends And Refracts The Approaching Wave
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When the submerged atoll is dome-shaped, it refracts the wave path to its center
The exact shape of the atoll's dome is critical
the atoll acts as a kind of lense concentrating the wave energy
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